Oktoberfest began in 1810, when Prince Ludwig of Bavaria married Princess Therese of Saxe-Hildburghausen (don't worry, Therese will generally suffice). Over the course of several decades the event evolved from an honorary horse race to a festival more like its contemporary American counterpart. This is not to say the two are entirely comparable, as the München festival attracts millions, lasting for several weeks. Cincinnatians seem pretty content with their own "people's fair," (which does carry the title of the largest Oktoberfest in North America) and we at BuyCincy feel that five million downtown for a month would be a bittersweet affair. Oktoberfest Zinzinnati proper began in 1976 as a simple block party with ties to the chamber of commerce and Hudepohl, but some assert that its roots in Cincinnati are much older, and a bit grittier.

"It's probably been going on since Germans got here," said Tom Harten, co-owner of Mecklenburg Gardens. "Places like Mecklenburg would've had their own Oktoberfests in every neighborhood." Historian Timothy Holian elucidated this history to us both by phone and in two volumes of his book, "Over The Barrel" (both of which we strongly encourage Cincy history buffs to check out). "German immigrants had an appreciation of their own region. Keep in mind that Germany proper was nonexistent. Oktoberfest was a Bavarian holiday," Timothy said. "Lager was not just a celebratory beer, it was also a social beverage. It was an emollient: it helped Germans network, and it was an excuse for people to come together." To both Tom and Timothy, this seems to be force that brought Oktoberfest to America. German clubs like "Kloppenburg" of Mecklenburg Gardens (discussed in this BuyCincy article) or the Donauschwaben used the event not to honor Ludwig and Therese, but to celebrate themselves and their homes, whether they be in Bavaria or Cincinnati. And, as Tim puts it, "You don't need a reason to party."

Patrons of a brewery district era Oktoberfest, Harvest Fest, or Autumn Fest would have expected multiple parties confined to bars throughout the area. The bars would have provided one type of lager, or two at the most. "Brewers usually owned the saloons, and they typically offered only standard and dunkel lager," Tim said to us. The bar fare would have been exactly that: bar fare consisting of salty and pickled foods. Early in the 20th century, though, the onset of German hysteria turned Oktoberfest into a more clandestine gathering. Most of the pockets and clubs reverted to speaking English, minimizing "Germanness" as much as possible. While modern attendees may lament the lack of authenticity in today's festival, it should be noted that Oktoberfest history is clearly one of transferred meaning, and the extent of which it is a "Volksfest" (people's festival) does not appear to have faded in the least. In closing our interview, we asked Tim what he recommends this year, and he started speaking our kind of language. "I'd be the first in line at the Moerlein booth. Greg Hardman is like a ball of fire, and a great resource. I'd definitely stop by BarrelHouse too. Why wouldn't you drink locally?" I don't know Tim, I just don't know.

                     Tom Harten
For those seeking the quieter, historical Cincinnati Oktoberfest, we turn once again to Tom and Mecklenburg Gardens. "If you don't like the crowds, come here," Tom offered. If it's not at the Mecklenburg Oktoberfest kickoff party, though, (on the 17th with the "Bier Band") it's doubtful you'll find Tom and his wife there. Not only will they be running a busy food booth at the festival, Tom is a self-proclaimed "Mister Oktoberfest." This title is not without merit, the Hartens have reigned as champions of the Gemuetlichkeit (goodwill) games for several years now. These games are typically themed around the festival, including rolling casks or carrying steins. "Make sure you try your local restaurant when you go." Tom's favorite Oktoberfest bier? "Spaten Oktoberfest, it's my favorite beer all year round."

-Timothy Holian is the author of "Over The Barrel," volumes one and two. The second edition is available at a reduced price with complimentary author signing at www.sudhauspress.com. Tom Harten has been the co-owner and operator of Mecklenburg Gardens since its reopening 14 years ago. Mecklenburg Gardens is located on the corner of University and Highlands in Corryville. BuyCincy article here. Website: www.Mecklenburgs.net.